We only glimpsed in a two day whirlwind tour of Angkor Wat, the genius of Khmer architecture, and in another day saw the bustling city of Siem Reap filled with vendors, restaurants and beggars. So we missed the outlying villages that express the bigger reality of Cambodia as you read and learn about the trauma, poverty, corruption and deforestation.
I love seeing what gets carried on bikes or scooters!
Siem Reap - a bubble of tourism and lights with vendors galore and Brad getting rubbed up by women, with requests for money for their children.
Immediately on entering Cambodia we were overwhelmed by the friendliness and smiles on the faces. The locals are eager to please and I have to agree with the travel books statement that "despite having Angkor Wat - the eighth wonder of the world - in its backyard, Cambodia's greatest treasure is its people. The Khmers have been to hell and back but thanks to an unbreakable spirit and infectious optimism, they have prevailed with their spirits - and smiles - largely intact."
New glimpses and learning are never ending for me as we travel through South East Asia and I have a hard time remembering it all. Cambodia is no different and has a fascinating history that is linked with the neighbouring countries. And of course America can't get out of it as the Vietnam war also
affected Cambodia or the fact that the UN actually allowed the Khmer Rouge to occupy the Cambodian seat at the UN General Assembly until 1991, meaning the murderers represented their victims for 12 years.
Guess no one is innocent when it comes to war and corruption. trauma, poverty, corruption and deforestation.
The Killing Fields is one of the movies that gives a glimpse of Khmer Rouge takeover if interested.
So even though Cambodia is a democracy, the real power comes from controlling the military, all levels of government, media and even affects services like health care, education and NGO's. As one of our taxi drivers mentioned in our 2 hr drive to the border, if you want to own a business and can't play the game, you won't make it. But his comments include that corruption is everywhere. The neighbouring countries just might cover it up better. As we arrived at the border, we were offered VIP treatment from the border police at the low cost of $10/person. We opted to stand in line and wait our turn.
We hired a Tuk Tuk driver for a day to check out the city sights and country side, and when we stopped to buy water, we ended up visiting with the store owner whose amazing story exemplifies the resilience of these people. His dad was killed by the Khmer Rouge when he was 9, and shortly after he started his career as a policeman he lost his leg from a land mine losing all that he saw his future to be. Having to start again is harder in Cambodia, but his present life shows that not giving up pays off. Bouth Rithy's story was written up by a UK journalist that he met when he was hired for some driving and can be found at http://www.theguardian.com/world/2009/feb/23/cambodia-heritage
Bouth Rithy, taxi driver, store owner and flip flop maker to help being in money to support his family sharing his story and delicious watermelon with us passer-bys.
Making sugar cane at the side of the road! Delicious!
This little piggy went to market.....
Cashew nuts growing out of the cashew flower.
1. An artisan workshop which takes people from outlying villages and provides them with education and the ability to learn a craft. This is not an NGO but a private business man who married a Cambodian and the locals can stay working for his business or go back and take their skill to their village. Painting, wood carving, sandstone carving, cooper smiths and others. Their work was beautiful but more expensive than those sold by street vendors.
Everything is done by hand from wood or sandstone carving to weaving or painting large murals.
2. Phare, Uniquely Cambodian, Daringly Modern - the Cambodian Circus. A hugely entertaining
cirque de soleil style evening with huge energy, great live music and acrobatic feats that leave you
shaking your head. This is run by an NGO which is focused on taking young people from the streets,
orphanages, struggling families and provide them education and training in the arts from music, dance, theater and circus training. It was great to see a style of art that will help move Cambodia into the future. A link to their site is http://www.pharecambodiancircus.org/circus/
Our best dinner was an off the main road traditional Cambodian BBQ.
What was hugely entertaining was when we wanted to order our beer, there came three cute girls each selling the brand they represented, hoping we would pick them so they could get their commission. Shortly after, there came "cigarette girls" in cute tight blue dresses going table to table selling cigarettes. Not sure if it was the food or all the girls that made it Brad's favourite dinner???
The food was good!
No comments:
Post a Comment