Tuesday, March 25, 2014

Seven Nights At Sea

What constitutes adventure when traveling?
Pushing yourself physically? Living and eating like the locals? Trying something new?
I say just go sailing in a foreign country where things don't operate the same way they do back home.

This story has two parts.  It could be a his and hers perspective if you will, as Brad and I do have a different perspective on sailing, but I would hate to be too stereotypical so I will call it part one and part two of sailing in Thailand.

Our lovely Vague à L'âme


Part one:

Begins with me asking Brad if we could have a crew or at least a cook when we decided to sail the eastern islands in the Gulf of Thailand. Partly because I pictured myself  sitting on the bow, a light breeze keeping my golden locks out of my eyes, swimming up to the swim deck while someone brought me a watermelon shake ..... And mostly because I didn't want any responsibility, especially if problems arose.
Reality was that I agreed it would just be the three of us and I would be first mate....
I started to get worried when in our orientation to the boat we were informed that there are no weather channels to check ( just google the nearest mainlands weather ), and VHF radio is not used (just call the owners cell).  I guess we wouldn't of understood anything anyway, as my Thai is still very basic.
Each day seemed to come with one adventure or another....

Finicky and a little difficult was how the owner described the main sail furling system. Another 'F' word comes to mind.  Holding the boat into the wind with surges and swells for three hours while Brad tried to find a creative way to deal with the stuck sail midway up the mast was not the relaxing picture I had in mind.
A burn, mild sunstroke and blisters was Brad's first day.  His take: "these things happen on boats".
The problem continued and little did we know it just required Brad to climb the mast and fix it from there.... Yay, right. No thank you!  That's when you're glad the charter company is in charge of servicing their boat.

Can't figure our why Brad didn't want to give this a go.....
Look up, waaaaay up....


Or when your dingy engine looses it's rev and as you are coming back from a little dingy ride up through an  estuary and then a river surrounded by mangroves to check out a waterfall and the engine has to work so hard with no umph that the fuel is used up before you get back to your sailboat anchored out in the middle of the bay, leaving you to paddle 300 meters against surge and waves and wind.  Two strokes forward, one surge back, two strokes forward, one surge back, repeat...... Over and over again!..... Again, not quite what I pictured.  I can only imagine how hard the local fishermen were laughing as they watched us from their boat anchored a few meters a way.  Middle aged woman with big straw sun hat, in a little dingy that looks like a wave could easily turn it over, givin her with husband encouraging sounds heard above the grunts  and groans.

Probably the best near disaster missed was coming in to anchor one night.  Nice and slow, like always.  Checking out the depth and good place to drop the anchor. Anna and I at the bow, looking for rocks or coral.  We were getting shallow so Brad hits reverse to back up the boat only to have the boat suddenly surge us forward into 2 meters of water... Our reverse wasn't working and we had no idea why.  Again, so glad the charter company is responsible and after an interesting anchoring experience with no reverse we waited for the mechanic to arrive.  In their engine overhaul a pin was not replaced....  A rather scary experience.... I'm about ready to check in at the nearest resort, Brad continues to believe that any day on the water is still a better day than on shore.

Then after the second visit by maintenance when they fixed the dingy motor and main sail, Brad takes the dingy out and comes back to the boat, paddling..... This time the propellor fell off when Brad hit reverse.... What can you do but laugh.... And call the charter company once again....

So happy when things are working...

Part two:

It's a good thing that we didn't have our camera to capture the mishaps, because that is only one part of the experience.
The boat, named Vague A L'ame - meaning waves of melancholy - was a beautiful 37' Catalina that was just the right size for the three of us.
The water color is that perfect aquamarine and so warm it almost isn't refreshing, but is, and you
could float for hours as long as your imagination of the fish below don't chase you out sooner.

Momma lovin the warm water.... Staying afloat with just a little help....


The islands we visited varied.  From shores speckled with resorts, to fishing villages built high on stilts along the waters edge and no one speaks any English at all or bays whose only inhabitants are shore lined palm trees and white sands leaving our boat light the only thing in competition with the stars.

Looooonnnngggg stretches of softer than soft white sands......





Snorkelling along the coral reefs doesn't disappoint and fish of all kinds are there for our viewing pleasure.

The winds were stronger than predicted which made for some perfect sailing days and though the
winds brought unexpected rain for this time of year it only ever lasted an hour and the clouds made for some gorgeous sunsets.

Days spent drifting along with moments of silence allowing for contemplation, reading, no daily agendas, Anna handling being off line extremely well, being able to cook our own meals after eating out for 1 1/2 months, playing games under a starry night sky, warm breezes, amazing sunsets and dolphins swimming by your boat as you sip your morning coffee and watch the sun come up......




Loving how laid back and fun and easy Anna is to be with!
You make my heart happy Anna! 


Auto pilot! Sitting back and enjoy the perfect steady  southeast wind!


When I was getting wound tighter with each daily mishap, Brad gallantly came to the rescue.
Cooking, Anna and Brad letting me win at scum (ya right, I rule!) and Brad serving his two girls with love.

I may not be ready to go and live on a boat like Brad dreams of, but the memories of these last seven nights at sea will be a highlight of this trip and I think now that Brad has had his sailing time, he could go home..... But not yet!!!!  Vietnam, here we come!

3 comments:

  1. So good to hear from you. Kept looking for a blog and this morning had the pleasant surprise to again read of your adventures. And what an adventure...you guys are so great and looking so good. Anna, I love your smile (without your braces)! Love you all!

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  2. Sounds very much like our sailing adventures......thankfully only on Okanagan Lake! I laughed through each of your days, even harder because I could identify with them. (Only not nearly as exotic) Loving your photos and your writings.....when you get home, you should invite a flock of people over to view your photos and sip exotic drinks and munch on Durian!

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  3. Really enjoy your writings Angela. I see a book in your future.

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